Learn About Diamonds At American Diamond Wholesalers Fundamentals

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Diamond Fundamentals

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At American Diamond Wholesalers, every diamond we offer for sale meets the highest standards in the industry for quality of cut.

Cut - Shape

Any diamond you are considering on our inventory list has been cut to maximize its beauty and will meet or exceed your expectations.

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If you're not sure about a technical detail, and how it may bear on your selection, feel free to call or e-mail us with your question or description of your needs.

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Dimensions - Proportions

It is important to examine these measurements on the GIA grading report in order to determine whether the diamond you have selected meets your personal preferences regarding shape.

Carat Weight

As diamonds increase in weight, the per-carat cost also increases because larger diamonds are more rare. A one carat diamond costs considerably more than two 1/2 carat diamonds and significantly more than four 1/4 carat diamonds of the same quality. Therefore, when comparing prices, you must compare diamonds of equal size, color, clarity and cut.

Color

The price of a diamond is also impacted by how desirable the shape is by industry standards. If, for example, you find a marquise, whose price seems too good to be true, examine the measurements of that diamond.

If the marquise is long and skinny, like a canoe (e.g.- 13MM X 4 MM) or too squat, like a football (e.g.- 8 MM X 5 MM), you should expect to pay less than a well shaped marquise (e.g.- 10 MM X 5 MM). Minor variations are a matter of personal taste, but severe deviations from industry standards will devalue the diamond.

Clarity

The Ideal Cut

Picture of Ideal Cut Diamond

If you choose a diamond that has been designated as an "ideal cut", you will certainly be buying a beautiful diamond. However, it is important to note that equally or more beautiful diamonds may not have "ideal" proportions, but have been cut with equivalent precise attention to proportion, symmetry and polish as to produce a magnificent and brilliant gemstone.

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The Key to Buying a Diamond

      The diamond ring has been a symbol of love and romance since 1477, when Archduke Maximilian of Austria gave Mary of Burgundy a gold ring set with a diamond as a token of his love. Today, the tradition of the diamond engagement ring continues. According to a new consumer survey, 82 percent of all brides-to-be receive one.

      Understanding diamonds requires knowledge of the Four C's: Cut, Color, Clarity and Carat Weight. Some familiarity with these and several other attributes can help make sense of the elusive question as to why two diamonds equal in one or more aspects may not be of equal cost. It is the interplay of the various diamond characteristics that will determine its beauty and its value.

      But it's the quality of the cut that gives the stone its brilliant sparkle. If a diamond is well cut, light will enter the stone, bounce off the mirror-like facets and be reflected back through the top of the diamond, creating brilliance and fire. Brilliance is the return of light to the eye from inside the diamond (reflection of light). Fire refers to the prism effect, separating white light into a rainbow of colors (dispersion of light).

      The depth and table ratio percentages of a diamond are perhaps the most important proportions in determining if the diamond exhibits its maximum brilliance. Depth percentage is the height of a diamond as compared to its diameter. If a diamond is cut too deep or too shallow, light will leak out of the bottom and the diamond will appear dark.

Table Ratio Percentage is the diameter of the table (the flat part of the diamond) as compared to its girdle (the circumference of the diamond). There is no set standard as to what the table ratio percentage should be. It is often a matter of personal taste. However, if the table is too large, the diamond won't have much fire. If it's too small, the diamond will be less brilliant and will most likely appear small for its weight.

Dimensions - Size and Proportions

How big is your "Dream Diamond"? Certified gems are accurately measured in one of several ways, depending on shape. Round diamonds are given a diameter range, such as 6.28 - 6.39, and depth. Expressed in millimeters, the measurements might read:
6.28 - 6.39 X 4.01 MM

Other diamond shapes are specified as length X width X depth, and the measurements might read:

8.83 X 5.92 X 3.70 MM

Color

      Color is a very personal choice. Even when budget imposes no constraints, while some may choose an icy white diamond, others may prefer a warmer tone to match their complexion.

      Diamonds usually have a slight tint of yellow, brown or gray. The color saturation is so minute that sometimes diamond graders have a difficult time distinguishing between colorless and near colorless stones. Because of the very slight nuances between colorless and faint yellow, most people would not be able to distinguish any tint of color in a diamond up to a J or K, when mounted in a piece of jewelry.

      If you are very sensitive to color, you may want to compromise on clarity or size in favor of a whiter diamond. But, in no event should you select a white diamond that has been poorly cut, because you will notice its lack of brilliance more than its lack of color.

Clarity

The term clarity refers to a diamond's lack of naturally occurring inclusions and imperfections. Often called Nature's Fingerprints, most of these are not visible to the naked eye. The fewer inclusions and imperfections a diamond has, the more valuable it is.

Diamonds are graded according to the number, location and size of their inclusions. The most common inclusions are pinpoints (crystals), feathers (fractures) and clouds (groups of pinpoints). Minor inclusions will lower the price of a diamond without affecting its beauty. A diamond without any inclusions is exceptionally rare and is priced accordingly.

The Ideal Cut

      There has been much debate in the diamond industry as to what constitutes an �Ideal Cut� diamond. The GIA, the most esteemed organization in diamond research and education, has recently released the results of its study as to what proportions in a diamond are �Ideal� (published in the GIA Gems & Gemology, Fall 1998 issue). It concluded that no specific numbers could be said to produce the absolute ideal cut diamond.

      In fact, it found several completely different combinations of proportions to produce maximum brilliance. Table size, depth percentage and the degree of both crown and pavilion angles combined together produced such different degrees of brilliance that we, in the industry, should expect to see new "ideal cuts" in the near future.

      Nonetheless, most refer to the standards promulgated by the American Gem Society, whose grading system ranges from AGS 0 (Ideal) to AGS 10 (Poor). The AGS Ideal Cut signifies a diamond which has been cut to predetermined proportions, ostensibly maximizing its fire and brilliance. Few diamonds have achieved this exalted status.

How Much Should I Spend?

Deciding how much to spend on a diamond engagement ring is a very personal decision based on income, lifestyle and personal taste. Most people find the "two months salary" guideline to be helpful in determining how much to spend. We recommend that you choose the finest quality diamond within your budget, because a diamond engagement ring is a unique and enduring symbol of love and commitment that will be treasured for many years.

PERSONALITY
A diamond is an expression of individuality. Just as love is unique, no two diamonds are alike. Each diamond has its own personality and sparkle. So, when purchasing a diamond engagement ring, it's important to become an informed consumer. A little knowledge can go a long way to help unearth the best quality diamond within a budget.

CUT
Diamonds can be cut in several shapes such as:
      ROUND BRILLIANT
      MARQUISE
      OVAL
      EMERALD
      RADIANT
      PRINCESS
      PEAR
      HEART

Selecting a shape is simply a matter of personal choice.

CUT SPECIFICS
Diamonds are carefully measured, in millimeters, degrees and ratios to describe their exact shape.

These measure:
      LENGTH
      WIDTH
      DEPTH
      TABLE
      GIRDLE
      CULET
      PAVILION
      CROWN

CARAT
This refers to the weight of the stone. There are 100 points to a carat. Therefore, a diamond of 50 points weighs one-half carat. There are 5 carats to a gram.

COLOR
The most valuable color is no color or very intense color (i.e., fancy yellow). A totally colorless diamond allows white light to pass effortlessly through it and be dispersed as lovely rainbows of color. The grading of color is expressed with a letter, such as D, representing the best and most transparent.

COLOR SCALE

D, E, F
Colorless (collection)

G, H, I, J
Near Colorless (white)

J, K, L, M
Faint Yellow (top silver)

N, O, P, Q, R
Very Light Yellow

S through Y
Light Yellow

Z
Fancy Yellow

CLARITY SCALE

F, IF
Flawless/Internally Flawless
Free from internal blemishes under 10x magnification

VVS1, 2
Very, Very Slightly Included
Inclusions and/or external blemishes very difficult to locate under 10x magnification

VS1, 2
Very Slightly Included
Inclusions and external blemishes difficult to locate under 10x magnification

SI1,2
Slightly Included
Inclusions and external blemishes easy to locate under 10x magnification

I1, 2 & 3
Imperfect
Inclusions and external blemishes visible to the naked eye.